Taking the Scenic Roots

By Emily Millar |

A Short Introduction to Nagoya's Eclectic Music Vistas

Seattle equals grunge. Any music fan worth their over-sized RIP Kurt Cobain t-shirt knows that the city is synonymous with the scene that spawned a bevy of Nirvana progenies and their angst-riddled anthems. But did you ever think Nagoya could lay claim to its own home-grown genres? Though not necessarily born and bred (Japan's ability to culturally copy-and-paste other countries' styles runs along musical lines, too), Nagoya's diverse music scenes are surprisingly entrenched, and long after a scene rises out of nowhere then dies just as suddenly in other parts of the world, more often than not it remains relevant and fresh in Japan, thanks largely to its devout fans. We plunged underground and dug up a few musical scenes still at large in Nagoya, exploring the style, bands and venues that created them.

Nagoya-Kei Scene

The Lowdown

Nagoya-Kei (Nagoya style) is the slightly darker, slightly ballsier offspring of the more widely-known Visual-Kei scene. Bands like X-Japan and Dir En Grey are exponents of the movement, which enjoys a huge following in Japan and an ever-expanding fan base overseas.

What to Wear

Think Ziggy Stardust at a goth convention at Yoyogi Park on a Sunday afternoon: extra-glam make-up, lots of black, with elements of cos-play chucked in for good measure. Girls may be boys, and boys may be girls - if you can't tell the difference, then the job's done.

What to Listen to

Fans of the various ~keis debate the distinctions between the sub-genres, but Nagoya-kei is generally considered to be steeped in underground influences from overseas, such as British punk, goth and death metal - anything around the late 70s or early 80s. This seems to lend Nagoya-kei a more credible edge over other ~kei, which may rely more on theatrical costumes and makeup rather than musical innovation. Lynch was one of the first Nagoya-kei bands to emerge, and other popular bands include Jaguar, Deathgaze, and Merrygoround. The Pumpkin Head are a Nagoya-kei band that currently appear to be gigging regularly, both in Nagoya and other cities.

Where to Go

Live house havens for fans in Nagoya are Electric Ladyland in Osu - you'll have to dodge hoards of black-clad teens with big hair on any given night, all of them patiently queuing up along the footpath outside the venue. Music Farm in Fujigaoka often host noisy visual bands of wildly-varying quality also.

Mods Scene

The Lowdown

Though Osu is a hodge-podge of vintage clothing stores, a quick glance at the racks reveals a lot of polyester imported from the UK, and those funky threads usually find themselves on the bod of a mod soon enough. Long after it was funny to quote Austin Powers making a mockery of the swinging 60s in the mid-90s, mods remained in force in Japan, and the frequency of mod-related events in Nagoya testify to its popularity.

What to Wear

Being a true mod from top to toe requires a sharp bowl-cut, skinny shirt (paisley print optional), and exceptional tailoring. For girls, fake lashes for that 'doe-eyed' effect are a must, coupled with the shortest shift-dress you can manage without feeling embarrassed. Of course, Osu is the place to go to get modded-out. The Other now has three stores in the shopping arcades, and all stock the most authentic British mod gear for guys and girls, run by authentic Japanese mods. A scooter is not an optional accessory - it's a must-have.

What to Listen to

A couple of the highly-recommended Nagoya mod-bands of the past few years are The How (a sharply-dressed foursome), and The Absolude, who blend sunny California sounds with the classic British mod beat. For an all-girl mod line-up, check out the Shanghai Bay-Bees.

Where to Go

Live House OYS (in Osu) is the place to be, and is usually the venue to host the Mods Mayday events that come around every few months (though sometimes that honor goes to Club Up-Set). You may also be able to sample some mod sounds at ell.FITS ALL, above Electric Ladyland.

Punk/ Rock 'n' Roll Scene

The Lowdown

Nagoya may not have as glittery a music scene as Tokyo or Osaka, but what it lacks in immediate prominence it more than makes up for in good ol' fashioned punk rock ethics. Considering the population, there's a high concentration of live houses that insist on showcasing indie bands doing anything from straight up rock 'n' roll, to rockabilly, hardcore punk, garage and everything in between. Naturally, influences are worn proudly on leather sleeves, but there are also a lot of innovative sounds coming out of Nagoya that rival anything our larger neighbors produce.

What to Wear

Whatever the fuck you like - you're a punk, after all. Recent mainstream fashion movements mean that watered-down faux-punk kids are roaming the streets, but if you want to do it D.I.Y., shop nowhere but op-shops, be immensely anti-brand, and wear only the tightest black jeans with genuinely wrecked converse sneakers (some brands are excepted, naturally).

What to Listen to

For the definitive introduction to Nagoya's punk rock roots, look no further than Star Club. Formed in the late 70s, their raw energy built them a cult following, and they continued to thrive as Japanese punk darlings long after the British punk explosion fizzled. There's more than a hint of the Sex Pistols, and like many J-bands, Star Club remain prolific, still churning out albums in the noughties. Some other prominent performers on the Nagoya circuit are Black Ganion (hardcore punk, with extremely excellent flyer artwork by local art collective Dark Funk Spot), and Yas Oil Well Cars, true rockabilly rollers with those distinctive growly vocals and tight riffs.

Where to Go

Huck Finn IS Nagoya punk, and hosts some of the best from Japan and around the world. KD Japon will sometimes showcase more unusual noise outfits, and - of course - head to Club Rock 'n' Roll, which basically does what it says on the tin.

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